DIY Gathered Skirt Pattern Drafting: How to Create a Custom Skirt Pattern for Beginners

Posted on by VERA
Gathered skirt with flounce

Want to make a custom gathered skirt that fits perfectly? This DIY sewing pattern drafting tutorial will show you how to draft a skirt pattern from scratch—no expensive software or store-bought patterns needed!

This is not a printable pattern, but by following these beginner-friendly sewing steps, you’ll be able to create a completely custom skirt pattern tailored to your exact measurements—for FREE!

Looking for the tutorial on making this skirt? Check out my guide on How to Upcycle a Thrifted Shirt into a Skirt!

Gathered skirt with yoke and elastic waistband

Materials Needed:

  • Pattern paper or large sheets of paper. Pro tip: I use wrapping paper that has a grid on the back a great alternative to pattern drafting paper. The grid is generally 1 square inch and you can pick up clearance holiday paper for next to nothing.
  • Measuring tape
  • Ruler (preferably a French curve or hip curve for smooth lines)
  • Pencil and eraser

Step 1: Take Accurate Measurements for Your DIY Skirt Pattern

  1. Waist: Measure your natural waistline where the elastic will sit.
  2. Hips: Measure the fullest part of your hips (this will determine the yoke width at the hip line).
  3. Yoke Depth: Measure from your natural waistline to where you want the yoke to end (below the hips).
  4. Skirt Length: Decide the total length of the skirt from the waistband to the hem.
  5. Flounce Width: Decide how wide you want the flounce to be (typically 4-8 inches).

Step 2: How to Draft a Waistband for a Custom Skirt

  1. Waistband Width:
    • Multiply your waist measurement by 1.5 (for light gathering) or 2 (for more gathering).
      • Example: If your waist is 30 inches, the waistband width will be 45 inches (30 x 1.5) or 60 inches (30 x 2).
    • Add 1 inch for seam allowance.
  2. Waistband Height:
    • Cut the waistband to twice the width of your elastic + 1 inch (for seam allowance).
    • Example: If using 1-inch elastic, the waistband height will be 3 inches (2 x 1 + 1).

Step 3: Designing the Yoke – Adding Shape & Fit

  1. Yoke Top Width:
    • The top of the yoke should match the waistband width.
      • Example: If the waistband is 45 inches, the yoke top will also be 45 inches.
    • Add 1 inch for seam allowance.
  2. Yoke Bottom Width:
    • Use your hip measurement as the base for the yoke bottom width.
    • Multiply your hip measurement by 1.5 (for light gathering) or 2 (for more gathering).
      • Example: If your hips are 40 inches, the yoke bottom width will be 60 inches (40 x 1.5) or 80 inches (40 x 2).
    • Add 1 inch for seam allowance.
  3. Yoke Depth:
    • Use the yoke depth measurement you took earlier (e.g., 6-8 inches).
    • Add 1 inch for seam allowance.
  4. Yoke Shape:
    • Draw a trapezoid for the yoke:
      • Top Width: Waistband width + 1 inch (e.g., 46 inches for a 45-inch waistband).
      • Bottom Width: Calculated yoke bottom width + 1 inch (e.g., 61 inches for a 60-inch hip measurement).
      • Height: Yoke depth + 1 inch (e.g., 7 inches total for a 6-inch yoke).
    • Add a slight curve to the bottom edge of the yoke for a better fit.
    • Curve the outer edge of your trapezoid for a better fit.

Step 4: Drafting the Skirt Body for a Perfect Fit

  1. Skirt Width:
    • The skirt body should be 1.5 to 3 times the yoke bottom width for a gathered look.
      • Example: If the yoke bottom is 60 inches, the skirt width could be 90-180 inches.
  2. Skirt Length:
    • Calculate the skirt body length:
      • Total Skirt Length – Yoke Depth + 1 inch (for seam allowance).
      • Example: If the total skirt length is 30 inches and the yoke depth is 6 inches, the skirt body length will be 25 inches (30 – 6 + 1).

Step 5: Adding a Flounce for a Stylish Finish

  1. Flounce Width:
    • Decide how wide you want the flounce (e.g., 6 inches).
    • Add 1 inch for seam allowance.
  2. Flounce Length:
    • The flounce should be 1.5 to 2 times the width of the skirt bottom for a ruffled effect.
      • Example: If the skirt bottom is 90 inches, the flounce length should be 135-180 inches.

I’d love to see your DIY sewing pattern drafting results!

Drop a comment below with your pattern-making experience!
Have tips or questions? Let’s chat in the comments!

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